“OK”, Pal said. “How much for the wine?” Tibor—whose wine we had been drinking for the past half hour, and whose wine cellar we had basically crashed—raised his eyebrows and said, “Nothing, it’s my treat. And I’ll be insulted if you offer me money again.”
Outside of Hungary, gulyás –or goulash as I remember from my childhood in California–is more of a meaty sauce served over pasta than the smoky stew I’ve come to love. For the real-deal, cubes of meat are simmered in a rich broth of paprika, onion, garlic, pepper and caraway. Together with carrots, potatoes and csipetke (small fresh pasta bits) these ingredients combine to make an undeniably soulful and satisfying soup. Gulyás was originally a favorite of herdsmen on Hungary’s great Hortobágy plain, and was made primarily with mutton. Over the centuries the recipe has changed with the times and now commonly includes beef or pork (sometimes both)….
The deeper we went, the better it got. Along with my wife Anita and our friends Eva and Norbi, I was at the Miskolc Avasi Borangolás (Miskolc Avas Wine Wander) for the first time. Borangolás is actually a clever play on the word Barangolás which means to wander. Bor means wine…
Szomolya is a place I’ve wanted to visit for some time. Last week Anita and I came upon this village in the best possible way: by surprise. We were driving along the country roads exploring the villages of Cserépváralja, Cserépfalu, Bogács and Noszvaj. This rural region lies at the southern base of northern Hungary’s Bukk National Park. It’s a place of rolling hills and vineyards, and straddles the border between Borsod County and Heves County. The territory is considered by many to be one of Hungary’s most beautiful wine regions….